• Wipe scissors clean after each use.  Synthetic fibers are abrasive and dulling to the blades of your scissors.
• Oil the pivot area regularly.
• Cutting too many thichnesses will cause progressive damage to blade edges.
• Dropping scissors can warp blades.  Take care in handling them.

Caring for Your Quilts
Remember the adage, "An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure."  Keep this in mind when considering how to care for your quilt.  There are certain steps you can take to preserve your quilts, whether they are antique, vintage, or contemporary.  Preserve and protect your quilts from harmful elements so that future generations can continue to enjoy the magnificent works of art you have made.

    Tips on Handling Quilts: 

• Be sure your hands are clean while handling your quilt.
• Never play "tug-a-war" with a quilt.

    Tips on Cleaning Quilts: 

• The best way to clean the quilt is by vacuuming.  To vacuum, put a nylon hose over the suction end of the vacuum and vacuum carefully.  Do not let the nozzle rest on the quilt; keep it about an inch above the surface.
• If you must wash your quilt, be sure to test the fabrics to see if they "bleed".  Use a soft clean cloth and lukewarm water, padding the quilt from underneath with a clean white towel.  Gently pat the quilt with the dampened cloth.  If any of the fabric colors bleed, STOP.
• If your quilt is fairly new, made of polyester with new polyester batting, it can be laundered in the washing machine, but DO NOT AGITATE IT.  Fill the washer, add a little mild cleaning solution, be sure it is dissolved, and then put the quilt in to soak.  After spinning it dry on a the gentle cycle, rinse at least two time to be certain any cleaning product has been removed.  Then it can be spun dry and tumbled in a cool dryer, then laid flat to finish drying.  Never hang a wet quilt on a clothesline; it puts too much stress on the fabrics and the thread.
• To launder a quilt of more delicate fabrics - cotton but without embellishments, half-fill your bathtub with lukewarm water and a small amount of special quilt cleaning agent, baking soda, or Johnson's baby shampoo.  Use half an ounce to a gallon of water.  If your water is hard, use distilled or soft water.  Be certain the cleaning agent is completely dissolved before putting in your quilt.  Make a "cradle" from an old sheet.  Fold the quilt accordion-style into the "cradle" and gently lower it into the bathtub, carefully moving the water through the quilt, and let it soak.  Drain the water and press the quilt press the quilt with your hands or gently step on it with CLEAN feet to remove as much water as possible.  Refill the tub and rinse the quilt.  You may need to rinse several times to remove all cleaning agent residue.  Remove as much water as possible.  Lift the "cradle" and quilt out of the tub and place it on toweling, rolling gently to remove as much water as possible.  Find a large flat place, out of direct sunlight, and preferably where animals can't walk or lay on it, and lay the quilt out flat.  Be sure it doesn't touch any wood.  Cover with another clean sheet, and let dry.  Be certain the quilt is completely dry before storing it.  You can place an electric fam above the quilt that will circulate the air and delp it to dry faster, but don't aim the fam directly on the quilt.

1. Choose a smooth-surface high-quality, 100% cotton fabric.  Permanent-ink pens (such as Micron Pigma) perform better on all-cotton fabrics than on blends.
2. Prewash the fabric; cotton fabrics usually contain sizing which acts as a barrier to ink penetration.
3. Select a fabric color that will allow the ink to show.  Avoid white-on-white prints because the pattern is painted on, rather than dyed into, the fabric.  The paint makes writing difficult and the ink doesn't penetrate as well.
4. Purchase pens that have permanent ink and are made for fabric (such as Micron Pigma).  A fine point (.01) writes delicately and is less likely to bleed as it writes.  Lines can be made thicker by going over them more than once.  For larger letters or numbers, a .05 diameter pen works well.
5. Test the pen and fabric together.  Write on a fabric sample, then follow the manufacturer's directions (if included) for setting the ink.  Wait 24 hours for the ink to set, then wash the sample as you would any fine quilt.  The extra time it takes to run such a test will pay off in years of durability.
6. Stabilize the fabric and create guidelines with freezer paper.  Cut a piece of freezer paper large enough to cover the fabric's writing area.  Use a ruler and thick black marker to draw evenly spaced lines on the freezer paper's dull side.  Iron the freezer paper to the fabric's wrong side with a hot, dry iron.
7. Repeat step 6 several times so you have samples for practice.
8. Practice writing.  Write slowly and with a lighter touch than you normally would write on paper.  This allows time for the ink to flow into the fabric and lets you control the letters. 

How Much Fabric Should I Buy?

Confused about how much fabric you need for a quilt?  Here are some general fabric requirements for popular size quilts.  Note that the quilt tops require more fabric than the quilt backs because there is waste as the fabric is cut into small pieces to be sewn and because the seam allowances really do take up a lot of fabric.  Yardage has been figured generously as it is often a disaster if you run out of fabric before the quilt is finished.

            CRIB QUILT                                      QUEEN SIZE BED QUILT
                Suggested Size:  45" x 60"                              Suggested Size:  80" x 100"
                Backing Fabric:  2 yds                                     Backing Fabric:  7-1/2 yds
                Blocks:  1-1/2 yds                                          Blocks:  6 yds
                Sashings:  1 yd                                               Sashings:  3-1/2 yds
                Borders:  1 yd                                                Borders:  3-1/2 yds
                Total for quilt top: 3-1/2 yds                          Total for quilt top: 13 yds

            SINGLE BED QUILT                             KING SIZE BED QUILT
                Suggested Size:   60" x 96"                            Suggested Size:  100" x 100"
                Backing Fabric:  4 yds                                    Backing Fabric:  9 yds
                Blocks:  3 yds                                                Blocks:  8-1/2 yds
                Sashings:  2 yds                                             Sashings:  4 yds
                Borders:  2 yds                                              Borders:  3-1/2 yds
                Total for quilt top:  7 yds                                Total for quilt top:  16 yds

            DOUBLE BED QUILT                        Very Important:  These measurements are
                Suggested Size:  75" x 96"                    approximate yardage requirements and could
                Backing Fabric:  6 yds                           change due to size of blocks, width of sashings,
                Blocks:  5 yds                                       and size of borders.  They are meant to be a
                Sashings:  3 yds                                    guide only.
                Borders:  3-1/2 yds
                Total for quilt top:  11-1/2 yds
 

Some Simple "Block" Math
                                Squares Per Fat Quarter (18" x 22")
                            2" = 99                2-1/2" = 56                2-7/8" = 42
                            3" = 42                3-1/2" = 30                3-7/8" = 20
                            4" = 20                4-1/2" = 16                4-7/8" = 12
                            5" = 12                5-1/2" = 12                5-7/8" = 9
                            6" = 9                  6-1/2" = 6                  6-7/8" = 6
                            7" = 6                  7-1/2" = 4                  7-7/8" = 4
                            8" = 4                  8-1/2" = 4                  8-7/8" = 2  

                                        Squares Per Yard (36" x 42")
                            1" = 1584            1-1/2" = 696            1-7/8" = 437
                            2" = 396              2-1/2" = 238            2-7/8" = 180
                            3" = 168              3-1/2" = 120            3-7/8" = 99
                            4" = 99                4-1/2" = 72              4-7/8" = 63
                            5" = 56                5-1/2" = 48              5-7/8" = 42
                            6" = 42                6-1/2" = 30              6-7/8" = 30
                            7" = 35                7-1/2" = 20              7-7/8" = 20
                            8" = 20                8-1/2" = 20              8-7/8" = 16
                            9" = 16                9-1/2" = 12              9-7/8" = 12
                          10" = 12              10-1/2" = 12            10-7/8" = 12
                          11" = 12              11-1/2" = 9              11-7/8" = 9
                          12" = 9                12-1/2" = 6              12-7/8" = 6     

                                            

Ways to Improve Your Quilting

Always use the best fabric, thread, and batting you can afford.  Good quality materials will give you the best results.

Use the right tool for the job.  Quilting tools may seem expensive, but most will last a long time and will pay for themselves in accuracy and quality of workmanship.

Take care of your tools.  Oil and clean your sewing machine often, and insert a new needle with the start of each project.  Keep scissors and rotary blades sharp and nick-free.  Store your rotary mat away from the sun and heat.

Whether sewing by hand or machine, get good light on the subject.  You need to see what you're doing in order to do it well.

Set up your sewing area for comfort.  You'll be able to work longer with better results if you feel good.

When choosing fabrics, remember that variety in scale, value, color, and pattern add interest to the appearance of a quilt.

Step back from your work as you progress and look at it from a distance.

Always iron your fabric before cutting your pieces.  Using a light starch can make your cutting easier and more accurate.

Measure twice - cut once to avoid mistakes and wasted fabric.

Cut the largest or longest pieces - like borders - first.  You are less likely to find yourself short of fabric.

When cutting or marking around templates, apply spray-on glue or rubber cement to the back of them so they will stay in place while you mark.

Use the same ruler throughtout a project.  Not all rulers measure exactly the same.

Whenever possible, cut patches with the grain of the fabric.  The stretchiness of bias makes it difficult to keep the pieces true to shape.

Press seams to one side as you progress through your project.  If abutting seams are pressed in opposite directions, they will match up better.

Measure and/or square-up your pieced units from time to time during the project to be certain they are the correct size plus seam allowances.

Before beginning a project, test your marking tool of choice on your fabrics to be certain it will wash or run out.

Check the back of your quilt from time to time to be certain your quilting stitches are getting through all the layers.  If machine quilting, be sure your bobbin thread is sewing correctly.

When you need to take out a few handquilting stitches, use a fine, steel crochet hool.  The rounded tip removes the stitches easily without catching threads of the fabric.

If, after removing stitches, you find a row of tiny holes left in the fabric, dampen a cotton swab with warm water and rub it gently over the holes to make them disappear.

If the work table for your machine is small, arrange other tables around your sewing machine so your quilt fabric is supported while you quilt.  This avoids "drag" on the quilt that can pull it in the wrong direction.

Putting a busy print fabric on the back of your quilt will help to hide those rare imperfect stitches.

Be creative with the back of your quilt.  Make it from leftover fabrics or blocks, use soft flannel for a lap or bed quilt, or piece your label into the back.

To get an interesting quilting design without marking, use a print fabric on the back of the quilt and stitch from the back, following the design of the fabric.

Confused About Needle Sizes?

MACHINE NEEDLE thickness increases as size increases.  In other words, the higher the number - the thicker the needle - the heavier the fabric.  Example:  Size 18 needle is thick - mainly used for denim or upholstery fabric.

But with HAND SEWING NEEDLES, thickness decreases as size increases.  In other words, the higher the number - the thinner the needle and/or shorter the length.  Example:  Size 12 needle is sliver-thin.

When purchasing needles, there are two sets of numbers, which is confusing.  American sizes are on top row or shown first; European sizes on botton row or shown next. 
Example:  Size 8/60   9/65   10/70   11/75   12/80   14/90   16/100   18/110

Sizes 8, 9, 10, & 11 are used for thin fabric.  Sizes 12 & 14 are used for medium weight fabric.  Sizes 16 & 18 are used for heavy weight fabric.

TWIN NEEDLES are a bit more confusing.  You have to consider the space between the two needles.  Example:  2.0/80     2.0 is mm between needles, 80 is needle size or size 12 in American.

Here are some basic types of needles:

Universal Point Needles are a grat all-purpose needle.  This needle has a very slightly rounded tip that is still sharp and can be used for general sewing of most knit and woven fabrics.  Singer codes this needle with a red top.
A Ballpoint Needle has a slightly more rounded tip than a Universal.  Be sure to use a Ballpoint Needle if sewing knits.
A Stretch Needle also has a rounded tip.  It's specially shaped shank creates good stitch formation on elastic or highly elasticized fabrics such as spandex.  This is also a good needle for faux fur and fleece.
A Quilting Needle has a tapered point and slightly stronger shaft for stitching through multiple fabric layers and across intersecting seams.
A Sharp Point Needle (also called a Microtex needle) is thinner and sharper than the Universal point. It is an excellent al purpose needle for piecing, applique, and quilting.  Singer codes this with a purple top.
A Jean or Denim Needle has a very sharp tip, slender eye and a strong shaft.  This is good for sewing on tough, heavyweight fabrics such as denim, canvas, or upholstery.  Singer codes this with a blue top.
A Metallica Thread Needle has a larger Teflon coated eye which reduces friction but still accommodates heavier threads and reduces splitting and shreadding on delicate metallic threads.

Needles are easily confused; especially when you take them out of your machine and don't label them for future use.  So when changing the type of needle being used in your sewing machine, be sure to identify it somehow.  A good way it a Tomato Pincushion.  You can mark the different segments with the size and kind of needles you use.  Put a special pin (like a fancy hat pin with an "In Use" tag taped to it) in the segment of the needle you are using.